Marathi and Loutraki: two little gems in eastern Akrotiri

Once again we are here to talk about Akrotiri, that is the rugged and isolated peninsula where Chania airport is located. As already mentioned in the past, the first time we came to Crete we gave the cold shoulder to this area, to all appearances rough, barren and uninteresting. As time passes, we actually found out new gems showing us this steep tip of the island in all its beauty, a really magical area…

In this post, we will talk about two lovely little beaches, very close to Chanià and located in the south-east coast of Akrotiri peninsula: Maràthi and Loutràki.

Being a few kilometres distant from each other, we decided to visit them both on the same day. In the morning, we sunbathed in the peaceful Marathi, divided into two sandy bays by a small marina. Like most of Cretan beaches, this one has also an area with full facilities and a free one, as well as cafes and taverns with sea view.  Being quite secluded, it’s ideal for those who don’t want to put up with the tantrums of the popular Meltemi, the cold and dry wind coming from the north and that it often blows in summer in Crete (luckily, we would say!). Here, the uniquely clear water is shallow for many metres and often calm: ideal to have long relaxing swims, let the children play and, why not, snorkel…. Not to mention the beautiful view you can enjoy from the shore! The rough peaks and cliffs of Akrotiri stand out just before you and make you feel cuddled by Mother Nature.

The morning in Marathi moved lazy and relaxing, and after a quick sandwich, we decided to reach the arms of its little sister, Loutraki. The name itself, “Loutraki”, (“small bath”) predicts what we will find. A tiny piece of heaven, surrounded by two promontories and scattered by cluster pines whose branches provide some refuge from the heat. Here as well, the colour and clearness of the water makes an impression. The shades of blue alternate gradually as the sea gets deeper, and walking few metres towards the horizon you can clearly spot a few hermit crabs, all with different shells, running frantically back and forth on the clear and sandy seabed. The actual beach is completely free. If you want lounger and umbrella, on the right side of the beach, there is a grassy area provided with facilities and shared also by a hotel and a café. The latter offers to all bathers the chance to use the loungers in exchange of a purchase. After few swims, a chilled Mithos beer and a lot of sunbathing, we headed home and we decided to end this relaxing day with a bang…

We had heard about a joint in Chania where they serve fresh fish in a casual environment…we had to try it! The tavern is located in one the main streets of the town, Daskalogianni, in the neighbourhood of Splantzià, very much loved by Chania residents. It’s called “To Maridaki ”and itis now one of the restaurants that we recommend to our guests! 20150613_120015The place is cosy, decorated in a “maritime”style and features something we appreciate a lot: an open-plan kitchen. Even though, surprisingly, the fish is not a speciality of this island, since historically inhabited by big lamb and pork meat eaters, at“To Maridaki”, asin few other taverns in town, you can always find freshly caught fish masterfully cooked on the barbecue, steamed or fried, according to your liking. The peculiarity of this place is that the waiter, before giving the menu, will take the guest to see the window next to the kitchen and choose any kind of vegetables, pulses, first courses prepared on the day by two smiling women.IMG-20150613-WA0001 But the best part is that they will take you in front of the refrigerated section to choose whatever catch of the day you prefer! Once chosen, he will weigh it, tell you the price and ask you if it’s ok. Then, you just need to decide how you want it cooked and, finally, you can enjoy it! Prices are definitely fair, as always in Crete. A lovely grilled fish accompanied by a side of grilled vegetables, a generous portion of steamed octopus with a spicy tomato sauce and local vegetables, black-eyed peas with peppers and cooked Cretan herbs, half litre of white wine, toasted bread with olive oil and oregano: 37 euros for two! And obviously, we couldn’t say no to dessert and raki (the local grappa) offered by the hosts at the end of the meal…wonderful! There’s no much to add… perfect ending to a perfect day!

Are we making your mouth watering? It’s just few hours by plane, think about it ;-)…

Glyka Nera, Loutro and Finikas: the rough and poetical South

Those who follow us on Facebook have already been able to look at some pictures anticipating this post, because, as you already know, we love to arouse your curiosity and keep you in suspense!

We had thought long and hard about this trip and we finally decided to take it! Starting from the north-west where we live, we embarked on a trip to the opposite coast, the south-west, after travelling for about an hour and a half in the rough and charming mountainous hinterland that opens up under Chania.

The first village we reached was Hòra Sfakìon (or Sfakià), where we parked the car for the whole day, since it wasn’t needed any longer…

Sure enough, this coastal area of Crete boasts some of the wildest, most secluded and difficult to access beaches in the island, featured by an unquestioned and unspoilt beauty!

The first one we arrived to was Glykà Nerà, beautiful and much praised bay, accessible only by sea or by foot. From Sfakia, we took the 10.15am boat to Loutro, following the directions of the boatman himself, an attractive and authentic Greek man, with a ponytail, pitch black beard and a vest too tight to be able to contain the culinary habits of an obvious good eater!

DSCN2491Unfortunately, the sea was quite rough that morning, so much that it made those 10 minutes crossing to get to Glyka Nera quite wet… well, it didn’t really matter since we would have soon gone swimming anyway!

In any case, getting close to that wonder and enjoying the spectacle of the nature helped us forgot the salt shower of a minute before. A high and impressive rocky side of Lefka Ori (White Mountains) is the background to a narrow strip of pebbles that ends in blue and emerald and unbelievably clear waters!DSCN2499

We didn’t think it twice and, after descending to the tiny pier/floating boat, we laid down our towels and enjoyed an amazing swim! The environment was very relaxing and the people hanging out there were certainly eccentric and colourful. We saw youngsters with tents pitched on the sand and laundry hanging out under the sun, hikers in their bathing suits coming down from the mountain wearing their trekking shoes and huge backpacks, and, of course, there were naturists! Everything was very exciting! We would have stayed there all day people-watching!  DSCN2529

But back to us, as we haven’t told you a very important thing, that is why this place is called Glyka Nera, which means “sweet waters”. Well, the name comes from the fresh sweet waters that, straight from an underground spring, flow among the pebbles of the beach and end into the sea! Strolling around, you can actually notice these puddles among the stones, and in the middle you can see the gush of totally drinkable water spurting out from the ground. It is for this reason that it’s been installed a shower, working thanks to a solar panel, which gives to the bathers the precious liquid for drinking or simply rinsing the sea salt away.  DSCN2522

After a relaxing couple of hours and a last gaze to this little heaven, we left Glyka Nera. Jumping on the famous Delfini boat, we reached the village of Loutro in about 10 minutes.

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What’s the best way to describe the poetry and the magic surrounding this marina isolated from the rest of the world? It’s not easy, as it needs to be seen in order to be understood. Located on a half-moon shaped bay, the village consists of no more than 20 or 30 buildings, including houses, old community centres and small hotels. The view is amazing, as you can see all these small houses, identical to each other, all white, with the flat roof and the sea-coloured balconies! Do you want to know what Loutro reminds us of? A nativity scene!DSCN2562 You know at Christmas, when you set up the village behind the grotto? It’s exactly the same! And in this case as well, there is a reason behind the name Loutro, which means “bath”, and the key role is played by the many springs found in this area, whose water was able to reach as far as the nearby village of Anopolis.

After a delicious lunch in one of the many seafront taverns (13 € for 2 people…itnever ceases to amaze us!), we decided to get to a last destination: Fìnikas (or Finix, or Phoenix).

This time, however, we told ourselves: “Saddle up and go! We walk!”.Clearly a bit nervous and proud, we then took the E4, one of the 11 European long-distancepaths. We had heard about it many times and read many stories, and even today we dream of covering the Cretan route, 500 km from east to west (and sooner or later, we will do it!). For now, we can proudly say to have stepped on it for few kilometres! From Loutro, we passed by the first beach of Finikas (reached in about half an hour) and we arrived at the second one, in another 15 minutes: very rough beach, with rocks and pebbles, a small hotel and a couple of taverns, perfect setting for those who love a wild environment and total isolation (if you don’t mind the goats to keep you company!). DSCN2577
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On our way back, definitely in need of a restoring swim, we stopped at the first bay: small, stony, very pretty, with a few white and blue hotels as a backdrop. Despite the freezing water, we swam for few minutes, and then packed our stuff and climbed up the mountain again. Passing once again by the scant but suggestive ruins of the ancient town of Finikas, we slowly headed towards Loutro. Close to the town, we enjoyed for the last time the view from the top and filled ourselves with beauty, before taking the boat to Hora Sfakion and to our car.

How amazing is the south, guys! DSCN2582

Hopefully, we didn’t bore you to death with this long story… but also we hope we have managed to deliver a taste of this charm and a bit of Cretan sun to your houses and offices!

See you soon!

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Wonders of Falasarna

At just 50 km from Chanià, the varied western coast of the island provides us with another wonderful area, the area of Falasarna (or Falassarna or Phalasarna), with its sharp-coloured beaches and the archaeological ruins of its ancient city. It was one of DSCN2264the main Cretan cities during the Hellenistic age, and it reached its period of resplendence between the middle of the 4th century BC and 67 BC, when the Romans decided to destroy it and lock its doors in order to eliminate piracy! But it became famous thanks to its natural harbour, the only one in the whole western coast of Crete. Sure enough, in the Hellenistic era, this city, whose name came after the homonym local nymph, was one of the most important maritime forts of the island.

DSCN2268The best preserved ruins are certainly the following: the round-based harbour tower (4th century BC). It’s the only visible one of the original four, and it’s divided internally by two cross-shaped walls; the small tanks, initially used in the public thermaeand then to wash the clay in the artisan workshops; the harbour quay, with still signs of the bollards; the fortified walls,and a throne carved in the rock, probably dedicated to the god of the sea, Poseidon.  DSCN2272

The site is not very big, you can visit it with a short walk and, despite the hot weather, this area is often windy, therefore we managed to fully enjoy the tour of these ancient ruins. It’s always amusing to imagine how the life here was in those days or how those people could be able to conceive certain architectonic features, according to us very modern! Ancient Romans and Greeks certainly knew what they were talking about!

DSCN2269This is another place that we recommend, especially if you stay around Chania, since it’s really close and easy to reach. Besides, the entrance price is only 2 euros! The opening times are: from Tuesday to Friday, from 9am to 3pm.

After stocking up in culture, we couldn’t help but dedicate ourselves to one of our most favourite activities, basking in the sun in one of the beautiful Falasarna beaches, with light-coloured and coarse-grained sand. This windy and lovely bay was once awarded the best in Crete, and one of the top 10 beaches in Europe. It includes 5 beaches, one next to the other. The main one is known as Pacheia Ammos, and it is 1 km long.

DSCN2285It’s easy to fall in love with the exotic colours of the sea in this protected area! Yes, you are right, we say that about every beach we visited so far, but it’s the simple truth! In regard to beauties, here in Crete you will be spoilt for choice! Moreover, if you love beach parties, we’ve been told that there are many in Falasarna during the summer, to be precise on the first Saturday of every month…a must see for us as well!!!

See you soon!

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Click on the map to see where these spots are